a hillbilly talks buicks with a cow

[theholycow]

Originally Posted by Dubyagee

I bet it just boiled the fuel in the lines and died. The low oil pressure may have hurt it some. I would change all the fluids and run it.

Well that and fix the radiator.

Worth a try.

My father in law's shop has a low-mile Olds 307 that I bet I could get for peanuts. I was chatting with the head mechanic, who I trust, and he claims that it won't require any harness modifications, plug-and-play, and the existing engine mounts merely need to be bolted into existing alternate holes in the subframe crossmember. Kinda argued with him a bit aboot it.

I figure, it's easily available, and probably almost no cost...I could spend the time and money on making it fit I guess.

Thoughts?

[pwtr02ss]

I say fire yours up first and see how that goes. If it really is fucked, then snag the 307 up and slap it in until you can round up the combo you want. Motor swaps on something like that is something that can be done in a day or weekend if you arent familiar with the whole process. Get a buddy that knows what he is doing and it will go quick. Motor mounts, fuel lines, torque converter bolts, bell housing bolts, power steering lines, wiring/grounds, and its out. I can have a motor and trans out of a 4th gen camaro in 2 hours with me and someone helping. Those come out the bottom so its not exactly the same but I;m giving you a reference of time. Well hell, I pulled the front clip, motor and trans out of my 74 when I was restoring it in about 4 1/2 hours and I was by myself with all hand tools.

Long story short, start yours up and see how it goes. If its fucked get the 307 to get you back on the road.

[shootermcgavin003]

307 has different mounts. different fuel lines on opposite side. starter on opposite. And they are shitty.

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---------- Post added at 08:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------

No way it's plug and play.

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---------- Post added at 08:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:29 PM ----------

Also your car is full frame not sub frame. Also all 307 Olds had a ccc carb minus a few in Canada. So you need to eliminate that too. That means a new dist. Removing the smog pump and plug holes in heads. Few other vacuum shit.

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---------- Post added at 08:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 PM ----------

Also a fast 307 is 140 hp. Horrible engines.

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[stonehenge]

NHB shattering dreams

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[theholycow]

fak

He might have said crossmember and I remembered subframe.

I already removed the smog pump from my 4.1.

[shootermcgavin003]

You still need new mounts. 83 had 307. Is shit.

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---------- Post added at 10:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:29 PM ----------

Is much harder on 307 btw. Also a 307 after 83 is shit more.

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[shootermcgavin003]

ok ill run down the things i know now that im not on my phone and wife is not nekkid in front of me.

battery is on wrong side has to be moved.
the starter is on the wrong side so you need to build or buy wiring harness.
the fuel pump is on the wrong side so you either have to run new lines or extend yours under the engine.
has ccc carb so you need a non ccc carb with e choke and mech advance dist off a 260/33/350/400/455 olds.
exhaust manifolds will not bolt up gotta modify collectors at least.
the smog pump and some other stuff will have to be removed on the olds engine too and its a headache all those vacuum lines run into the ccc ecm.
motor mounts are no way the same at all so you have to have olds b-body or g-body ones.
there is a question on the ac if the lines will work and the coolant lines/radiator. never got that far into it.


point to all this is rick its as slow as the v6 you have now and is going to cost more to get installed than a 350.

[theholycow]

Thank you NHB.

I'm at a loss to explain why this guy is wrong. He's never been wrong, in my experience, and I understand he's done tons of swaps like this. If I didn't respect his knowledge so much I wouldn't have worried about it, I'd just have said "oh" and ignored him. Only thing I can think of is he considers that kind of stuff so inconsequential that he does it without thinking and doesn't remember.

[shootermcgavin003]

or he is used to fooling with say a chevy ..........which a chevy 307 from a 4.3 is a bolt in the caprices. so is a 307 olds to another olds engine. buick to buick etc... this is the olds 307 not the chevy one right? granted its not a super hard swap to any carbed gm engine but you gotta factor in the money. the 307 olds is the last thing id spend money on. 307 chevy isnt much better but is slightly.

[theholycow]

Wet compression test was identical to dry one, except I didn't get that one good cylinder. Put it back together with new plugs and started it. Sounds smoother and quieter than it ever has. Smoked a ton at first, because cylinders full of oil from compression test, but eventually there was only mild smoke from the tailpipe. Smoke from under the hood was moderate and didn't diminish, but there could have been lots of oil on the exhaust manifolds and such from squirting at the plug holes, dribbling when I changed the oil before, and who knows what else...not sure if that, or if it's coming out from the head gaskets/heads/etc.

Again I missed getting video of the same passenger middle cylinder.

[stonehenge]

Sounds fixed to me

As long as the burning oil u dear the hood stops after leakage/drippage burns off.

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[shootermcgavin003]

Let it burn off the see if quits

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[theholycow]

I was afraid to run it too long now that I don't think the rings are fucked. If head/head gasket failure, wouldn't running it fuck me by getting coolant in the oil?

[shootermcgavin003]

Not for a few minutes.

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---------- Post added at 09:00 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:52 PM ----------

Keep eye on coolant while it burns off. I think may be valve issue now. Could be hg. Buick aren't known to blow them. Hope it is though. Pretty simple fix.

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[theholycow]

HG would be lovely, I know how to do that shet already.

[pwtr02ss]

Glad you have Jeff on here with the buick knowledge, I have no clue about them and honestly didnt realize they were so different. If it started and ran great, check oil for coolant, if nothing, drive it and see if its down on power. Hopefully it was a fluke and it isnt hurt. Best of luck to you!

---------- Post added at 02:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:37 AM ----------

Originally Posted by nekkidhillbilly

wife is not nekkid in front of me.

pics or GTFO

[stonehenge]

Cao pls come change my hed gesket if that's what the issue is

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[theholycow]

Originally Posted by stonehenge

Cao pls come change my hed gesket if that's what the issue is

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It's more scary than it is difficult. All you do is take apart ALL THE THINGS! until you reach the head gaskets. Use a roll of masking tape and a Sharpie to label ALL THE THINGS! and get plenty of photos, have clean rags ready to stuff any exposed holes to prevent junk getting in (or FIWDIL and lose tools inside your engine). Might need some fuel line disconnect tools (don't forget to empty pressure from fuel system by pulling fuel pump fuse and trying to start the engine), definitely need a torque wrench for heads and intake manifold. Might need new O-rings for fuel injectors depending on if/how they come out (maybe they can come out as an assembly with intake manifold). Mostly top-down, but you might want to start with exhaust manifold so you can run the engine to heat up dat nuts. I prolly missed some details but that's about all there is to it. Repair manual can help with the list and with techniques for specific items obviously, and you need it for torque spec/pattern anyway.

[shootermcgavin003]

only thing is you may have to shave head some if warps. if you do one you have to both. good thing is more powar if you do.

---------- Post added at 12:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:49 PM ----------

i will say the v6 buicks prob would blow hg over the v8s the v8s have a little more clamping force.

[theholycow]

Started it and ran it a while. No immediate under-hood smoke, but there was quite a lot of smoke from the tailpipe. Took it for a drive and I guess it feels like there's less power. After the drive, more underhood smoke, no tailpipe smoke at all.

It sure is quiet and smooth, and it's idling at a much more reasonable low RPM than it ever has. Low idle may be because of a vacuum hose that I reconnected that might have been disconnected forever, or maybe I mixed up some hoses, or maybe something else entirely. Quiet and smooth may be the combination of low idle and new plugs.

I was going to C:\foam or Chemtool it but it's too damn hot outside.

[shootermcgavin003]

sounds like you have a leaking valve if its down on power and the engine is smoking. that or the ring like i said hasnt failed but is wore down.

[theholycow]

Recommendation on what to do, based on those potential diagnoses? Further diagnostics to narrow down which one? Just drive it?

[shootermcgavin003]

only way you can check it is pull the head off. you will be doing a valve job or rering job if that is the issue.

[stonehenge]

If you want to replace it with a v8 anyway and it seems to be running okay, you could just drive it while engine hunting.

Of course you may be slowly killing it if it has an issue like NHB mentioned lol

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[shootermcgavin003]

the v8 is the way to go.