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08-01-2014, 06:26 PM | #351 |
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sometimes they weep out the weep hole but they have bearings that fail make racket and they will leak slowly. rick where was the leak at that will help?
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08-01-2014, 08:22 PM | #352 |
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I'm pretty sure the leak was at the top of the radiator, but that's not to say that another leak didn't also exist.
---------- Post added at 03:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:00 PM ---------- So, let's say I buy the tool to turn the oil pump. How is it used? What shit do I have to take apart, hook up, etc? I really have ZERO clue.
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08-02-2014, 03:54 PM | #353 |
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you pull the dist. stick the tool in a drill. stick it in the dist hole and spin the pump. if the thing builds pressure your pump is fine. if it doesnt the pump has some issue. i would go through the leak down and comp test first though. odds are if the engine is hurt it will tell you. well unless you cracked the block. if you did it will have to be stitch repaired and idk if a 4.1 is worth the money really to do that. to stitch it you would have to do at least pull it halfway apart. if the leak down and comp test check out id prob fire it. see if it builds pressure see if you have a leak watch the coolant make sure the motor isnt sucking the rad dry with no leaks(blown gasket can dump it in the oil so can a cracked block).
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08-04-2014, 02:54 PM | #354 |
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Ok, so I can look up in the manual how to remove the distributor, but once I get the tool in there and spin the pump, how do I know if it builds oil pressure? Do I need to find a way to hook up an oil pressure gauge? I have electric and mechanical gauges (mechanical is most appropriate here I'm sure) but the only place I know to hook up is completely inaccessible in my car; I must disconnect passenger side engine mount and maybe drivers side too, jack engine, maybe unbolt fender or subframe or some shit.
Vatozone has loaner oil pump primer tool. Does this one look right? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=534529_0_0_ I'll get compression tester loaner while I'm there and do that first. I've never done it but I pretty much know the procedure and have no questions. They don't have a leakdown tester, though maybe it's a decent enough excuse to hit up Harbor Freight. OTOH, NSIW to find TDC 6 times just for a go/no-go test...KISS.
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08-04-2014, 05:42 PM | #355 |
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you can feel the oil filter for vibration or take a valve cover off and make sure its pumping good. they also make screw in gauge but idk how to use it.
tdc shouldnt be that hard to find.
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08-05-2014, 08:35 PM | #356 |
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Gonna pick up the oil pump primer and compression tester tonight.
What's involved in putting in a Chevy V8? There are just no Buick engines around here, and my post on V8Buick got no replies. Are the mounts in the same place? Does the transmission stay in the same place or will I have to get a different length driveshaft? Obviously I'll need a different bellhousing.
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08-05-2014, 09:44 PM | #357 |
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will be a headace radiator is different need caprice mounts will have to rewire everything starter. fuel pump is on the wrong side iirc too. have to have a different bellhousing and idk about the flex plate and shit. i know the tq converters arent the same on auto cars. would cost a bit more than the 350 buick. only way it would be cheap is getting all the parts from a caprice. you need a police spec cars on top of the that on the old ones since most are 305s. much less work and cost like i said to swap in a sbb. plus a stock sbc isnt nothing to write home about.
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I eat pieces of shit like you for breakfast. Last edited by shootermcgavin003; 08-05-2014 at 09:47 PM. |
08-05-2014, 10:57 PM | #358 |
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Rewire everything? Is there anything to rewire? There's like 3 wires in my whole engine system.
Didn't realize that aboot the fuel pump. Definitely would need a different flywheel, but the only engines that my flywheel will bolt on to are the 4.1, 3.8, and Dauntless 225. Will need one for SBB anyway. Donor Caprice might be a lot more likely than SBB. I'm serious, the only way I'm getting the SBB here is if you ship it to me. They might be a dime a dozen in KY but in RI they don't exist. I almost scored one on CL for $75 last year but I wasn't aggressive about it because I didn't need an engine.
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08-06-2014, 01:30 AM | #359 |
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sbb uses the same flywheel. v6 v8 what have you. a 225/231/etc... has the same shit as a 300 340 350 400 430 and 455. it may need balanced to v8 specs but it will all bolt up. it may be the olds fuel pumps that are backwards from a chevy idr. id have to look at it. the starter wires coil any temp sensors choke all are backwards from a buick. your carb will take a bit of work too the linkages and shit may be different. small stuff but it adds up as oppesed to unbolt and rebolt. try you engine before you worry about it. id rather have your v6 than the chevy.
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08-06-2014, 01:58 AM | #360 |
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I'm mainly looking for an engine complete with carburetor, coil, choke, etc. I don't have any temp sensors...
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08-06-2014, 03:00 AM | #361 |
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you should have the ones that wire up to igit lights and gauges......senders is more what i meant. if the 4.1 is good i wouldnt wory until could find 350.
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08-06-2014, 01:56 PM | #362 |
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Oh yeah, forgot aboot idjit lights. FIDIL on that shet though, that's like 5 minutes of work for me, I'm great at that.
Definitely keeping the 4.1 if it ain't broke. So I realized, I've always wanted fuel injection but what has stopped me is modifying the 4.1 and replacing the fuel tank. Well, I need to replace the tank anyway, and if I need to replace the engine then it's crazy not to just slap in a whole injected engine. I'm guessing I'd need an early injected Caprice/other RWD B-body. Thoughts? ---------- Post added at 08:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:30 AM ---------- http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/pts/4588056901.html
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08-06-2014, 02:02 PM | #363 |
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Thats a LT1. You would need to build or buy a harness and make the PCM stand alone I think. IMO would be the same as ls swap. As for the tank, you can keep a non-baffled tank and run an external inline fuel pump. If they make a car your body style that was fuel injected, you can do a direct swap, just have to run a hot wire. I used a 87' C-10 tank on my 74 C-10 when I did the swap. Used the 87 sending unit and 97' CK fuel pump. Its enough psi to support a stock 5.3 ls
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08-06-2014, 02:15 PM | #364 |
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For the harness I was imagining just taking the whole kit and caboodle from a donor car. Let the engine think it's still in the original car and has just lost a couple less-important gauges and sensors. DGAF, at least for now, if Check Engine Light is always on (wouldn't hook it up anyway).
I can get a tank and fuel pump from a Caprice that will bolt right in. I'm not familiar with inline pumps that make 55psi, I could potentially do that if necessary. That would let me use the brand new tank that I bought recently but didn't put in yet.
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08-06-2014, 03:49 PM | #365 |
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you could the use that tank and pump off the caprice. you will have to wire it up. the harness is a no go the chevy is a tbi car its totally different set up. i dont even think it would plug into the block on the firewall of the bop cars. even the v6 chevies had 4.3s instead of buick/olds engines. you will have to build your own harness. caprices made prior to 94 are tbi cars. yes you will need a pcm and have to custom wire it but it would work. be just like the tbi swap for your 4.1 we talked about except you will have to change all the other shit out for buick to chevy. you are looking at a bit money. idk how cheap you want to do this but to do the tbi or lt1 car you are looking a grand easy since you will have to buy the engine itself too.
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08-06-2014, 04:39 PM | #366 |
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With the kit-and-caboodle donor car swap, I don't know why the block on the firewall matters. I wouldn't be looking for a full-featured whole-car upgrade, just make it run and let it throw codes. What does it need inside the cabin?
I wasn't thinking TBI, my only interest in TBI was if it was an easy upgrade for the 4.1. Might as well go all the way with a more modern system. Ideally I'd like a 4.8 or 5.3 from a wrecked donor Silverado (no, not the rarer sought-after 6.0) but I imagine something from a Caprice will be a whole lot easier. Even if I won't do this, which seems likely, it's a good discussion for me to learn stuff.
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08-06-2014, 04:55 PM | #367 |
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The LT1 from the ad you posted would be the same amount of work as a 4.8 or 5.3. The principles are the same. The computer is linked to the BCM (body control module) Without that removed and deleted from the PCm, the motor will not start. You also have to add relays and wiring to run the fans/ fuel pump/ key on/ etc. You have to make them stand alone. If you are good with wiring, there are tons of diagrams online that show you what to do and where to get the stuff. It was easier for me to just buy one from Current Performance in Florida. The TBI would be your easiest and cheapest route if you want some sort of FI
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08-06-2014, 04:56 PM | #368 |
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too mash work, fts
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08-06-2014, 04:58 PM | #369 |
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Stonehenge??? wtf
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08-06-2014, 05:10 PM | #370 |
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08-06-2014, 05:19 PM | #371 | |
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Quote:
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08-06-2014, 06:03 PM | #372 |
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Its not that hard to do. Actually easier than I expected. Just takes money. I spent about $4k plus the motor/trans to do the swap in my 74'.
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08-06-2014, 06:39 PM | #373 |
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08-06-2014, 06:41 PM | #374 |
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fts
roll current engine with 0 oil pressure > $4k
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08-06-2014, 06:50 PM | #375 |
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BRB, new oil pump:
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